There are many fabulous walks in Crete but if you are staying in Malia or Stalis there’s a fantastic walk right on your doorstep! You can walk from Stalis to the pretty village of Mochos up in the mountains on the Bulgarian trail, or from Malia on the Malia trail. Best still you can walk the entire loop, which is what we have done recently. You will be rewarded with amazing views as you climb and hopefully get to see goats and sheep and plenty of the local flora and fauna on the way. Once in the village of Mochos there are some very good tavernas for lunch and local shops selling tablecloths and other traditional gifts. Here’s our account of the loop we did recently.
Malia trail to Mochos
We live in Malia so it made sense for us to start from here. The start of the trail is at the back of the Mare Monte apartments (walk up past the football ground) and you will see the walking sign and a gate which marks the start. There are quite a few gates on the trail and it’s important to make sure these are closed properly as they keep the goats off the roads.
The trail is rocky underfoot so you need to wear good walking shoes or trainers, boots if you have them. It’s reasonably well defined so pretty easy to follow. Take plenty of water with you as there’s nowhere to get drinks until you reach Mochos.
The path initially follows a river gorge which is dry in the summer months and then starts to climb until you reach a bridge where you cross the main highway. At the other side you bear to the right to pick up the path once more.
The scenery changes along the way, from rocky scrubland to olive groves. Look out for the goats who will dart across your path and watch you from the bushes. Take time to look at all the different plants and trees that grow wild here, depending on the time of year. When we did the walk there were lots of Ereremus desert candles – the tall, striking stems that seem to grow out of the rocks and blossom with beautiful white flowers.
The path continues to climb and at the top you will see the mountain village of Mochos ahead of you, a welcome sight I’m sure! The walk from Malia to Mochos will take you between 1.5 – 2 hours depending how many rest stops you make. The trail comes out by the village football pitch and there’s a final gate and you may be greeted by sheep as you are also crossing a farm. If you are walking in the opposite direction from Mochos to Malia just ask someone in the village for directions to the football ground or for the cemetery, both are not very far from the village square.
When you reach the village of Mochos head for the pretty village square. There’s a lovely church you can visit and several good tavernas if you want lunch or drinks whilst you take a break. If you are walking to Stalis on the Bulgarian trail you need to head out of the village on the road to Malia initially. The road climbs back up the hill and just before you get to the top there’s a sign to turn left for the Monastery of Virgin Mary Theogennitor. You can enter the grounds of the Monastery on the days it is open: Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays 11am-13.00 and after 17.00. They do ask you to dress modestly when entering the Monastery.
The Bulgarian trail to Stalis has the most amazing views all the way. The only problem is you are probably looking at your feet most of the time as the path is slippey and uneven. We’ve walked it up and down and I think it is probably best to walk up from Stalis as it can be trickey underfoot going down with lots of loose gravel. Either way you’ll want to stop and admire those views of the sea and the resorts of Stalis and Malia, so beautiful!
The path gets a little bit confusing in parts and we did meet two ladies who had gone off the path and were trying to climb up the rough ground, which is not recommended! You will once again come across quite a few gates, there to keep the goats off the roads. On this trail you will cross the main highway over a large bridge but you will also have to cross the Stalis to Mochos road twice so bring a lead for your dog. There are a few signs to help you along the way too!
If you are walking the other way, from Stalis to Mochos you are looking for the yellow circle signs like this one. The Stalis to Mochos Bulgarian trail takes on average about 2 hours, although a quicker if you are coming down. Again take lots of water and wear good walking shoes/trainers.
To find the Bulgarian trail walk up the road from the supermarket on the main highway in Stalis near the Rainbow Apartments. Walk up the hill and you will see some steps, go up the steps to the road, turn left and follow the road until you come to the yellow sign (above) for the start of the trail.
We came down this way and then walked along the main road back into Malia.
From home in Malia return we had walked 15.57km, 22,344 steps, taking 5 hours and burnt 1400 calories. Not a bad morning’s work!
Highly recommended!